BUGABOOS ROCK CLIMBING EQUIPMENT LIST © Copyright 2004, American Alpine Institute

Temperatures and weather conditions in the Canadian Interior Ranges can change from
minute to minute. Rain can fall at any time of year, and it is possible to get snow down below
timberline before the beginning of July and after about mid-September. But when the sun comes
out, it's glorious, and even occasionally down-right hot. Lows at night often drop to slightly below
the freezing point with daytime highs ranging anywhere from 35°F to 70°F.The equipment you bring must function well in a wide variety of conditions. Your clothing
should be warm, lightweight, dry quickly, and allow good freedom of movement. The layering
principle, based on several thin layers of insulation (rather than one thick one), covered with an outer
weather-proof shell, meets these needs well. Typically, mountaineers will wear a layer of long
underwear made from polypropylene or similar synthetic, another insulating layer of pile or fleece,
and a Gore-Tex shell, in addition to gloves/mittens and a hat.
In the early summer season, which extends to about mid-July, and also in the last part of
summer, from mid-September to the time the winter snows begin to fall in late October, the climber
will also bring along an extra light sweater, perhaps a pair of expedition weight long underwear in
addition to their lightweight pair, and a second warm hat.
The four mile trail into the Bugaboos is notoriously steep but remarkably short. With all of
our climbing gear and food for a week, packs tend to be very heavy. Choose your gear accordingly.
To save weight course participants normally pair up when using tents and stoves.
Please take the time to prepare your equipment carefully, and to the extent possible, become
familiar with it by using it in the field, perhaps on a backpacking trip. If you have any questions
don't hesitate to call the Institute office or equipments shop.
CLOTHING
Boots - Leather mountaineering boots* are highly recommended. Models like La Sportiva K2 or
Salomon Mtn. Guide 9 are good examples. Plastic boots can be used.
* They must be designed for heavy duty mountaineering, step-in crampon compatable, they should
be broken in, be thoroughly waterproofed, have at least a 1/2 length steel shank, and used in conjunction
with a supergaitor or be well waterproofed. Your guide will evaluate the acceptability of
your leather boots the morning of your course.
Gaiters - Knee high. If you buy gaiters ahead of time make sure they are large enough to fit over
plastic climbing boots. Gaiters can be rented or purchased at AAI before your course. Required for
everyone who is not bringing supergaiters.
Running shoes or light weight hiking shoes - For around camp
Rock Shoes - Required, if you don't own your own you can rent them from AAI.
Socks - Wool or synthetic, (no cotton). Bring two complete changes. It is recommended one wear a
thin liner sock, and one or two pair of thick socks depending on boot fit.
Long Underwear Bottoms and Tops - This will be your base layer and should be lightweight
polyester, polypropylene or similar synthetic.
2nd Warm Layer - Expedition weight long underwear bottoms and tops, 100 weight powerstretch,
very light weight fleece are good examples of this insulating layer
Warm Pants and Jacket - Pile or fleece preferred. Note: In the mid season, from mid July to early
September, you can just bring your previously mentioned expedition weight long underwear
bottoms(in addition to your thinner ones) and omit the pile, fleece or wool pants. However, still
bring the fleece or pile jacket.
Insulated Jacket - Lightweight down or synthetic in addition to the fleece jacket. Some good
examples are an insulated ski parka, a down sweater, any insulated jacket. This is different than your
outer most waterproof shell jacket. Needed only in the earlier part of the season (before July).
Rain Pants or Bibs - Gore-Tex or other waterproof breathable material recommended. Full side
zips recommended for easy on and off over boots and crampons. Coated nylon is an option however
do to typical weather conditions, demanding physical activity, combined with nylon’s limitations it is
not highly recommended.
Rain Parka with Hood - Gore-Tex or other waterproof breathable material recommended.
Coated nylon is an option however, due to typical weather conditions, demanding physical activity,
combined with nylon’s limitations it is not highly recommended.
Liner Gloves - Polypropylene / polyester.
Modular gloves or mittens - which include a matched pair of insulating gloves or mitts and waterproof
shells offer excellent protection. Good models are made by Outdoor Research, Black Diamond,
Wild Country and others. (If you bring a pair of these you'll still need to bring the polypro
gloves.)
Shorts - Lightweight runners shorts are best. Often worn over your lightweight long underwear.
T-shirt
Warm Hat - Synthetic is less itchy than wool and dries faster.
Sun Hat - A baseball cap serves well.
CLIMBING GEAR
Ice Axe - 60 cm to 70 cm length with standard toothed pick and wrist loop. If your axe doesn't have
a wrist loop, presewn ones are available commercially or you can bring about 6 feet of 9/16 inch
tubular webbing and we'll tie it on the course.
Crampons - Flexible. Be sure they fit your boots. Crampons with step-in bindings should be used
only with plastic boots or leather boots with soles designed specifically to accept heel and toe bails.
Climbing Harness - Should fit over bulky clothing. Adjustable leg loops help in this regard. Consider
purchasing a lighter weight harness but one with gear loops.
Carabiners - Bring four, two of which should be large, locking, pear shaped (or Münter) biners.
Climbing Helmet - Kayak, bicycle or construction helmets are not acceptable.
Prusiks - Prusiks are specially tied loops of 6mm cord used for crevasse rescue. If you don't have a
set of prusiks from a previous AAI course then bring three lengths of 6 mm perlon, 13 feet, 6 feet,
and 5 feet. (Precut lengths are available for sale at AAI.)
Belay Device - Bring one if you have one, but you don’t have to buy one for the course. If you want
to get one, be sure to get advice on choices from the Equipment Department. (ATC’s and like
devices are recommended over Figure 8’s.)
Ski Poles - this is an optional but highly recommended item that is useful in two ways:
1) taking the burden off your knees when coming downhill with a big pack and
2) giving you good balance points when making tricky stream crossings.
Telescoping (adjustable) poles are ideal, but non-adjustable ski poles at a length used in
alpine (downhill) skiing will work too. Our guides have found them very helpful.
CAMPING GEAR
Tent - Lightweight 4-season tent capable of withstanding winds to about 40 mph and continuous,
multi-day rain. We normally pair up in tents so if you don't have one, you may be able to share a
rental.
Sleeping Bag - Down or synthetic, rated to about 15 F. To help keep your sleeping bag dry, down
bag users should bring an extra large garbage bag with which you can line your sleeping bag stuff
sack and use for storage in the tent.
Sleeping Pad - Full length closed cell or Thermarest. If you already own a 3/4 it will be adequate
but your bag may get wet if not otherwise protected and your feet will not be insulated when camping
on the snow.
Stove - Pump type, white gas stoves, such as the MSR models are preferred. Bring a cleaning
needle. Compressed butane or propane stoves are acceptable. Course participants often pair up on
stoves. Due to airline restrictions** you may not bring used fuel bottles on the airline. If you already
own a MSR stove bring it and your pump and AAI will loan you a fuel bottle. If you do not own a
stove you can rent everything.
**United Airlines has indicated that backpacking stoves with detachable fuel containers may be
taken on board, but only the stove itself (the fuel container-new or used- MUST be left at home).
The stove must be air dried of any fuel and be sent via checked baggage, not carry on. Further
information on this regulation may be found by a United Airlines employee under Hazardous Materials:
Camping equipment; footnote.
Fuel - 3/4 liter is sufficient for 7 days for one person. White gas can be purchased from AAI.
* (As a reminder, fuel cannot be taken on airplanes.)
Fuel Bottle** - Leak-proof bottles such as Sigg or MSR are best. Can be rented or loaned if you
already own a stove.
Pots - One 1 1/2 or 2 quart pot is enough for one person. Two people sharing a stove should
bring two pots.
Utensils - Large thermal mug or cup (pint size best) and spoon minimum. Most people also bring a
bowl.
Lighters - Bring two.
Water Bottles - Bring two 1 quart wide mouth.
Water Purification - Bring tablets such as Potable Aqua. These are lightest and most efficient. If
you want to use a filter pump realize that streams will not be accessible until mid season and make
little sense prior to this time.
MISCELLANEOUS
Food - Try to keep it reasonably light, as packs will be heavy as we hike the steep trail up to base
camp. See MEAL PLANNING FOR ALPINE MOUNTAINEERING for food suggestions.
Large Pack - Large internal frame pack, minimum 5000 cubic inches recommended. An external
frame pack is acceptable, however these types of packs do not perform as well when climbing.
Summit Pack - 1500 - 2000cu. in. it it ideal to have a small pack to use for you ascents from your
base camp. You can climb with your large pack but it is not recommended.
Headlamp - Bring an extra bulb and batteries. Flashlights are not acceptable.
Pocket Knife - Multipurpose tools like the Leatherman Tool are great, Swiss army knives work well
also.
Compass - Liquid filled. Appropriate USGS topographic maps can be purchased at AAI.
Repair Kit - Needle and thread, a small amount of adhesive tape, stove repair kit, Thermarest repair
kit, 20 to 40 feet of light cord, crampon adjustment tools if your crampons need them.
Personal Medical Kit - For blisters, cuts, scrapes, etc.
Insect Repellent
Glacier Glasses - With side shields make sure they are 100% UVA/UVB to protect from snow
blindness.
Sunscreen - With a protection factor of at least 16. For the fair an SPF of 20 is better.
Lip Protection - With a protection factor of at least 16. For the fair skinned an SPF of 20 is better.
Personal Toiletries - Bring half a roll of toilet paper or less.
Garbage Bags - Bring two or three large ones. They serve a large variety of uses.
Stuff Bags - Bring three or four of varying sizes and colors to help keep your gear or food organized.
Camera - With lots of film and an extra battery.